Performance events like fieldwork require a physically sound poodle, meaning the way the poodle is put together. Certain physical features can inhibit the dog from performing to its full potential and while regimented exercise can help a poorly structured poodle perform it cannot replace a sound body that performs with little effort.

Bone - the working poodle should have enough bone so it does not look spindly and too refined. Heavier bone gives allows for adaquarte attachments of muscles and ligaments needed for the strength and endurance of working all day.

Head - the most important feature for fieldwork is the strength of the jaw and a correct bite. A strong jaw has to be of sufficient width to hold the correct number of teeth firmly in place and having an underjaw (chin) gives muscle attachment allowing the dog to carry heavy birds. The bite should be a scissor bite to get the best grip on the birds and be able to pick up them easily.

Front-end assembly - The most important thing for the poodle to have is good lay back of the shoulder blade and upper arm. This allows for the poodle to be able have the lovely upright head carriage and efficiency for working. The shoulder blade and upper arm should be positioned so the fore leg is directly under the deepest part of the chest. Or the elbow lies on the 5th to 7th rib counting from the front. This layback allows for shock absorption, lowering its head to be able to pick up a bird on the run, holding its head flat on the water giving it a flatter more efficient swimming position. The angulation between the shoulder blade and upper arm ideally should be between 70 and 90 degrees. The more angulation the more shock absorption and more area for muscle attachment. A good width of chest is being able to get 4 or 5 fingers between the front legs with the dog standing, the spring of rib allows for heart and lung capacity and maybe more bouyancy.

Back - Length of back should be measured from the point of breast bone to point of pelvis and should be 1 to 2 inches longer than the dog's height measured to top of withers. This allows for enough room so the back and front feet do not interfere as the dog moves giving a smoother more efficient gait and better swimming power.

Pelvis - The pelvis should have about a 30 degree angle, it should not be too flat as this causes very high tail sets and subsequently curled tails and hinders good forward propulsion from the hind legs. Too steep of an angle limits the backward push of the hind legs they push up rather than forward.

Tail - should be straight so when in the water it can be lowered so weeds can slide off easily.

Rear assembly - The rear angulation should match the front angulation so the dog is balanced front and rear. A balanced dog will move more efficiently and smoother and not tire so easily. The angulation between the thigh and shin should be about the same or only slightly more than the shoulder and upper arm angulation.

Feet - should have tough pads with arched toes allowing for the webbing between the toes.